Historic wreck dives come with a side of toothy shark encounters off the eastern U.S. coast

If looks could kill, we would be hard-pressed to last 10 seconds in this rough company. Each beast appears more menacing than the next. Slack-jawed, snaggletoothed and beady-eyed, there are at least a dozen of the bruisers crowding around us, 100 feet underwater in the shadows of the hulking Atlas shipwreck.

The sheer scale of elasmobranch biomass is daunting.

READ MORE: The Best Dive Sites in the USA

But rather than rip us to shreds with their diabolical dentition, the sand tiger sharks calmly hover alongside and lazily drift underneath and (most disarmingly) overtop us. They seem content to mind their own business, thinking who knows what kind of strange shark thoughts in their ancient shark brains. So rather than overanalyze the situation or flee in fear, I screw up my courage and line up the shot with my camera as a big one slowly approaches dead-on, pointed nose followed by mesmerizing maw … and then glides right on by, right over my shoulder.

I flinch, of course, a puppet pulled by the strings of primal instinct. Turning about, I do my best to recompose myself as well as the picture, framing a photo emphasizing the shark’s long, scythe-like tail fin as it smoothly disappears into a cloud of baitfish. The shimmering school all but obscures a jumble of wooden timbers, metal plates and ribbing, the skeleton of this 450-foot-long ship, an oil tanker that sank in 1942 during World War II. Unarmed and in the wrong place at the wrong time, the Atlas was torpedoed by a German submarine off North Carolina’s Cape Lookout.

I quickly decide to follow the shark through the curtain of scales, drawn by what lies in wait beyond. But before I can dive into the silver cloud, the minnows scatter, making way for a squadron of sand tigers. They are stacked up and out, 15 or 20 strong. One 9-footer hovers into view above my head, close enough that I can see the shark’s sensory pores, the freakish copepod parasites on its snout and, of course, the unruly tangle of dagger-sharp recurved teeth. My eyes go wide and time stops.

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My partner’s flurry of strobe flashes breaks the spell. I hurriedly raise my camera and begin shooting too.

The rush lasts long after the sharks pass out of sight. Hanging on the line high above the wreck, our safety stop has turned into an extended chimping session. My buddy and I relive the dive’s highlights, passing cameras back and forth, the glowing LCD screens full of sinister, toothy grins.

Top Dive Sites

1) Atlas

With the ship 90 to 120 feet deep, nitrox is a smart choice, within limits. It’s long been a hot spot for large sand tiger sharks. A big school of curious spadefish often parades overtop. Visibility varies from 20 to 80 feet.

2) Aeolus

Purpose-sunk 25 miles offshore in 1988 as part of North Carolina’s artificial-reef program, Aeolus is a great intermediatelevel dive from 90 to 110 feet. Explore the “keyhole room” between decks where sharks often aggregate overtop red gorgonian sea fans.

3) Spar

This 180-foot-long U.S. Coast Guard cutter is a crowd favorite. Not only is the wreck intact and easy to navigate, but it also offers numerous penetration options and hosts sharks, barracuda, amberjack, the occasional butterfly ray, and schooling grunts.

What To Do

Fort Macon State Park

History buffs should jump at the chance to tour this site, which played host to pirates like Blackbeard, multiple Civil War battles, and much more. ncparks.gov

Carolina Coastal Lighthouses

If you’re willing and able to climb the many steps, stunning views are the reward at the lighthouses at Cape Hatteras and Currituck Beach.

Wright Brothers National Memorial

Stop here to take a tour of the exact site where the famed Wright brothers solved the mystery of flight, and explore models of their camp and test gliders.

Coastal Helicopter Tour

See the Outer Banks from a different perspective, with views of lighthouses, wrecks and marine life in store — and be sure to plan the tour accordingly to avoid DCS risk. obxhelicopters.com