In the islands of southeast Sulawesi, Indonesia, beauty and variety are a given. But while the scenery is breathtaking, this area is really all about the critters hiding in nooks and crannies: Baby clownfish, robust pipefish, Bargibant’s and Denise pygmy seahorses compete for attention with candy crabs and minute whip coral shrimp, while sea turtles and lionfish patrol the reef, sending sweetlips and snappers scurrying.

Variety comes naturally along the route of Pelagian, a 115-foot luxury liveaboard operated by the owners of the famed Wakatobi Dive Resort. Along walls and seamounts, we explore sparkling coral reefs with schools of fish and dramatic outcrops full of barrel sponges and soft coral, with spectacular, untouched reef tops mirrored on the surface.

Let’s just jump to the conclusion: Everything about Pelagian impresses. From its spacious designer cabins and stateroom to a huge sun deck and a large aft deck for briefings and prep, diving from the yacht is more pleasant and convenient than most boats I’ve been on. Two 18-foot Zodiac RIBs launch off either side of the mothership, carrying four to five divers and a guide; tanks and BCs stay on the RIB, where they are filled. (The compressor has an excellent muffler; I can’t remember hearing it a single time during the trip.) Pelagian carries a maximum of 10 guests, so there’s always plenty of space, no waiting, and personal service is guaranteed.

Pelagian’s staff is as addicted to the prolific marine life in the area as the divers they cater to — they’re great at finding critters too. Their passion is contagious — after every dive there’s an excited buzz about what people have seen, what it’s called, and could they please show us more?

Pelagian offers the opportunity to do real muck diving, not necessarily common on liveaboards. Below Magic Pier, New Pier and Banana Beach in Pasar Wajo Bay on Pulau Buton is where you find the really weird and wonderful stuff. Before boarding, I had heard tales of the abundance of marine animals that make the bay their home, and the staff does not let us down: Over just two days we find blue-ring octopuses, stonefish, a variety of juvenile frogfish (including the pretty harlequin), several species of seahorses, colorful nudibranchs, devil scorpionfish, shaggy filefish and the largest mandarinfish I’ve ever seen. The reef at Magic Pier teems with them, so eager to mate, they don’t even wait for dark. It’s hard to concentrate on them, though, with wonderpus octopuses slithering about on the bottom.

My personal muck highlight is finding Coleman shrimp sitting pretty in a fire urchin — after checking about 165 other urchins first. (I counted.) A little dismayed there’s only one — they usually live in pairs — I get my shots and swim off to show the others. That’s when I realize there are two of them after all — one was so small, I didn’t even see it. Another thing worth looking for are itsy-bitsy Lissocarcinus crabs living on sea cucumbers, which sometimes have spectacular patterns — the unlikely combination is a great photo opportunity.

Back on board, Pelagian offers every diver’s favorite reward: a great chef and kitchen staff, and gourmet quality fare — every day something new, every day just as delicious. Surface-interval snacks are something to look forward to, especially after the last dive, when little spicy delights appear magically alongside heated towels and cold beers.

The camera room on Pelagian deserves a special mention: Not only is it spacious and offers storage and enough charging outlets for everyone on board, its futuristic design reminds me of something from Star Trek. It’s pure joy to be able to set up cameras with the space, light and comfort one finds at a resort, all the while looking out at the open sea outside.

The cabins on Pelagian also are spacious — even the two smallest have separate beds and an en-suite bathroom. The large super-deluxe master cabin measures 225 square feet and features a sitting area, a king-size double bed with a huge stone-slab headpiece, as well as a bathroom bigger than most people have at home.

If you want a tropical dive cruise on a luxury yacht with some of the best diving the planet has to offer, Pelagian is certainly a fantastic choice.

WHEN TO GO
March through December; peak seasons are March to May and September to November. Pelagian is in dry dock in the rainy season; critters are present year-round.

DIVE CONDITIONS The diving is easy, suitable for all skill levels. Water temperature runs from 78 to 84 degrees F depending on season; a 3 mm suit will be sufficient for most. Visibility is 100 feet or more (can be less on some muck sites). The outer reefs and pinnacles might have current, but it’s nothing that will put you off. The muck diving is easy and you’ll have plenty of time, excellent for photographers and divers with an interest in marine biology.

TRAVELERS TIP You fly to the island of Tomia from Bali on Wakatobi’s private air charter. From the airport — built by Wakatobi Dive Resort — it’s a short drive to the harbor, and then a 20-minute boat ride to the resort itself on a secluded neighboring island. Travel schedules must be coordinated with the private air charter schedule.

OPERATOR M/Y Pelagian is operated by Wakatobi Dive Resort (wakatobi.com). Pelagian is 115 feet long and takes a maximum of 10 passengers in five luxury air conditioned cabins with an en-suite bathroom. There is free Wi-Fi when the boat is in range (bear in mind this is a remote and little-inhabited area).

PRICE TAG One-week cruises start at $4,200 per person, twin share, for the cruise and six days of diving; this includes Bali- Wakatobi roundtrip airfare and nitrox.

FIVE REASONS TO DIVE PELAGIAN

PURE LUXURY Pelagian is definitely one of the most luxurious liveaboards out there — your every need is catered to by friendly and knowledgeable staff.

SOLITUDE Few liveaboards pass through this area of southeast Sulawesi. Only Pelagian runs here on a regular basis; you won’t be bothered by other divers or experience crowded dive spots. You’re all by yourself!

PRISTINE The reefs are as untouched as they come, with healthy hard and soft corals, huge sponges, and beautiful seascapes teeming with fish and other marine creatures.

MACRO AND MUCK This unique itinerary offers a couple of days of muck diving — night dives at these sites are especially interesting.

TOP SHELF Everything regarding Pelagian is quality through and through. The cabins, the food, the diving, the staff, the briefings — it’s all five star and top of the line.