Aruba - Great Wrecks and Great Reefs
**The Dive Op
** I read lots of trip reports and reviews on www.scubadiving.com, Undercurrent, and www.scubaboard.com, which led me to the decision to dive with Clive Paula. Clive runs Dive Aruba (www.divearuba.com), a small dive op that takes a max of 7 people diving. He doesnt rush you and allows you to dive as long as you like. One of our dives was 1 hour and 14 minutes (on Nitrox). He has a weekly dive plan on his website, but he alters the plan to get the best diving for the current conditions. On some dives, it was just our family and Clive; other days one or two others. One day there were 4 others a full boat, but still enough space for all. Even though Clive is a one-man operation, we never felt rushed getting in the water or out. It was very comfortable diving and safety was never a question. He was very aware of the experience of the divers and kept a close watch on the less experienced. ****
The Dives
****Here are some notes from my dive log:
1/18 Finger Reef; in at 9:54am for 51 minutes, max depth of 108 feet, bottom temp 79 degrees
Lots of Butterflyfish Banded, Foureye, and a few Longsnout. A number of Angelfish mostly Queen and French. I saw a huge school of fish (Blue Tangs, then Surgeonfish) swimming towards me. Then they swam around me surrounding me on both sides. How cool is that! Felt a thermocline near max depth first on a Caribbean dive.
1/18 Mashango Reef; in at 11:34am for 1 hr, 5 mins, max depth of 48 feet, temp 79
Drift dive, but not a lot of current. Clive dove with us for about 20 minutes, then swam back to the boat. He follows our bubbles and brings boat to you when you surface. Saw Orangespotted Filefish (first time sighting for me) and Whitespotted Filefish. Lots of soft coral and very healthy reefs.
1/18 Sonesta Plane Wreck; in at 7:32pm for 47 minutes, max depth of 79 feet, temp 79
Oops! Got hung up on the mooring line at the surface, just as everyone was descending. Got Clives attention a few minutes later and he released me. Very cool night dive of a plane wreck (intentionally sunk). Did penetration of fuselage all walls were covered with orange coral. Way cool! Saw a Giant Basket Star, free swimming Spotted Moray Eel, an adult Spotted Drum (not hiding, but out and about), and a Juvenile Spotted Drum (with medium length fins). Also saw a number of sleeping Parrot fish they seemed dazed.
1/19 Jane Sea Wreck; in at 9:32am for 43 minutes, max depth of 91 feet, temp 79
Coolest wreck Ive ever dove! The coral and sponge growth is awesome. The wreck is still intact. We swam through a narrow exterior walkway on the bridge deck and went around the back of the boat. Clive pointed to something under a ledge a huge Green Moray Eel. When I looked up again, he had disappeared. I finally followed my son through a door hole and entered a huge hold. Then we swam through the bridge. Very, very cool! Also saw lots of neat sea life, including an Intermediate Phase Queen Angelfish, lots of male Sergeant Majors guarding their eggs, and several Bearded Fireworms.
1/19 Skalahein; in at 11:11am for 1 hr, 14 mins, max depth of 57 feet
Very long and relaxing drift dive. Nice current took us along at just the right speed, then slowed to let us look some more. Very healthy reef that seemed to go on forever. Saw Whitespotted Filefish and a Sprawled Filefish each more than a foot long. Lots of male Bluehead Wrasses fun to watch them trying to keep their harems in order. Another Longsnout Butterflyfish.
1/20 DePalm Slope; in at 10:31am for 51 minutes, max depth of 85 feet, temp 73-79
Wall had lots of algae and not a lot of fish life. Visibility was also very low. We hit a thermocline several times; you could see it. Saw a Spotted Moray Eel, the orange spots on an Orangespotted Filefish, and an Intermediate Phase Blue Tang with a yellow tail.
1/20 Barcadera Reef; in at 12:24pm for 1 hour, max depth of 52 feet, temp 72-79 Drift dive, but very little current. Hit thermocline for first part of dive. My sons computer read 70 degrees at one point burr! Saw a Southern Stingray (about 2 feet across) with a fishing line dragging behind. Clive tried to get it off, but wasnt successful. Saw three moray eels near a small barge a Chain Moray and two Goldentail Morays. Also saw a small turtle (maybe 1.5 feet across).
1/21 Puerto Chiquito; in at 4:40pm for 32 minutes, max depth of 68 feet, temp 79
Clive doesnt dive on Sunday, so we rode ATVs in the morning and did a shore dive in the afternoon. Clive supplied the tanks. Found the dive site on www.shorediving.com. Very easy entry and exit. But lousy visibility, say 20-30 feet. Some algae on coral, but lots of nice tropical reef fish. My son saw a Chain Moray Eel again. I saw two damselfish mating. I was impressed that my husband accurately predicted where to head for shore just at our entry point!
1/22 Sonesta Plane Wreck; in at 9:34am for 53 minutes, max depth of 84 feet, temp 79
Two wrecks at this site, but we only dove one of them (the Dash 80) due to the current. We had dove the other one as a night dive on 1/18. Saw bunches of Blackbar Soldierfish and Pedersen Cleaning Shrimp hanging around Anemones.
1/22 Sponge Reef; in at 11:20am for 1 hour, max depth of 50 feet, temp 79
Lots of beautiful sponges to be expected at a site called Sponge Reef! Several Green Moray Eels and a Purplemouth Moray (first time sighting not common in this area). Sure wish my pictures of the Purplemouth was decent.
1/23 Debbie II; in at 9:56am for 48 minutes, max depth of 74 feet, temp 79
Round reef island surrounded by sand. A very nice wreck was intentionally sunk at the edge. My husband spotted a Spotted Scorpionfish, about a foot long, at the edge of the coral island. Watched a Green Moray Eel being cleaned by two Scarlet-striped Cleaning Shrimp. My picture also shows an Arrow Crab which I didnt even notice at the time! Saw lots of Longsnout Butterflyfish about 8 of them! More than Ive ever seen anywhere. Also two Longjaw Squirrelfish (first time sighting). The mooring line was its own coral reef - covered with coral, sponges, and lots of tiny critters including blennies sticking their heads out of holes, watching us on our safety stop.
1/23 Antilla Wreck; in at 11:57am for 55 minutes, max depth of 54 feet, temp 81
Very busy place lots of snorklers, although I doubt that they could see much. Very big wreck (~400 feet). We penetrated lots of spaces on the wreck (very easy entry). Saw zillions of Painted Tunicates. Watched a Banded Butterflyfish fan eggs with tail not sure why as there was a good current. Saw several Bearded Fireworms one was about a foot long (the max length). Good size garden eels. Free swimming 4 foot Green Moray Eel.
The Hotel
We stayed at the Renaissance Ocean Suites, which is right next to the Renaissance Marina where Clives boat is docked. We stayed in a one bedroom suite that had a small kitchen (small refrigerator, microwave, and sink; no dishes or utensils). Apparently some of the other suites have a more complete kitchen. The balcony was big enough for three sets of gear. However, this is definitely not a dive resort people ask all kinds of questions as we schlepped our gear through the lobby. They have a tiny beach (probably man made), but also a private island with two beach areas one for adults, the other for families. A boat launch runs every few minutes. We dont spend much time relaxing at the beach, but I went one afternoon. It was a nice diversion for a few hours. Some people spend all day, every day on the island. There were two nice pools and a good (but expensive) pool bar. The Renaissance has two parts to it the Ocean Suites (where we stayed) and the Marina Tower. The Marina Tower is for adults only and has hotel rooms, rather than suites. Most of the restaurants and other services are available at the Marina Tower. It is across the street from the Ocean Suites, and a golf cart shuttle runs between the two. ********
The Restaurants
********Before going, I read many trip reports on Aruba (from divers and non-divers). Everyone raves about the restaurants. I did my research (including http://www.restaurantsaruba.com/) and was ready with my list of restaurants that my family would love. After striking out on the first few, we just randomly picked. Then we tried getting recommendations from other people there. We didnt have any great meals lots of pretty good meals. We think that we are spoiled by all of the great restaurants in the DC area. Or perhaps we just didnt have good luck. So, I dont have any restaurants to recommend **********
Comparisons
**********So how does Aruba compare to some other dive destinations? Heres some thoughts on how it compares to other destinations that weve visited in the past few years Bonaire Aruba has more variety (reefs, drift dives, and wrecks) and more topside activities (casinos, lots of restaurants, historic sites, horseback riding, ATVs, beaches, etc.). Arubas shorediving is very limited and the visibility wasnt as good. Bahamas (AquaCat itinerary out of Nassau) Aruba has much healthier reefs (many of the Bahamas reefs were covered with algae with very limited fish) but very few big animals (didnt see a single shark!). St Croix and Grand Cayman Aruba had better wrecks but no real wall dives. Cozumel Aruba has drift dives, but slow & easy drift dives, not the speed of the Cozumel drift dives. ************
Final Thoughts
************My external strobe was not working, so I didnt take pictures the first day of diving. Then I used my internal flash, which seemed to mostly illuminate the sand and sediment in the water column. Ive included just a few pictures that arent horrible. Aruba isnt usually considered one of the top diving destinations. But we sure had a great time and thought that it had plenty to offer for a good week of diving. You might want to check it out.
**The Dive Op
** I read lots of trip reports and reviews on www.scubadiving.com, Undercurrent, and www.scubaboard.com, which led me to the decision to dive with Clive Paula. Clive runs Dive Aruba (www.divearuba.com), a small dive op that takes a max of 7 people diving. He doesnt rush you and allows you to dive as long as you like. One of our dives was 1 hour and 14 minutes (on Nitrox). He has a weekly dive plan on his website, but he alters the plan to get the best diving for the current conditions. On some dives, it was just our family and Clive; other days one or two others. One day there were 4 others a full boat, but still enough space for all. Even though Clive is a one-man operation, we never felt rushed getting in the water or out. It was very comfortable diving and safety was never a question. He was very aware of the experience of the divers and kept a close watch on the less experienced. ****
The Dives
****Here are some notes from my dive log:
1/18 Finger Reef; in at 9:54am for 51 minutes, max depth of 108 feet, bottom temp 79 degrees
Lots of Butterflyfish Banded, Foureye, and a few Longsnout. A number of Angelfish mostly Queen and French. I saw a huge school of fish (Blue Tangs, then Surgeonfish) swimming towards me. Then they swam around me surrounding me on both sides. How cool is that! Felt a thermocline near max depth first on a Caribbean dive.
1/18 Mashango Reef; in at 11:34am for 1 hr, 5 mins, max depth of 48 feet, temp 79
Drift dive, but not a lot of current. Clive dove with us for about 20 minutes, then swam back to the boat. He follows our bubbles and brings boat to you when you surface. Saw Orangespotted Filefish (first time sighting for me) and Whitespotted Filefish. Lots of soft coral and very healthy reefs.
1/18 Sonesta Plane Wreck; in at 7:32pm for 47 minutes, max depth of 79 feet, temp 79
Oops! Got hung up on the mooring line at the surface, just as everyone was descending. Got Clives attention a few minutes later and he released me. Very cool night dive of a plane wreck (intentionally sunk). Did penetration of fuselage all walls were covered with orange coral. Way cool! Saw a Giant Basket Star, free swimming Spotted Moray Eel, an adult Spotted Drum (not hiding, but out and about), and a Juvenile Spotted Drum (with medium length fins). Also saw a number of sleeping Parrot fish they seemed dazed.
1/19 Jane Sea Wreck; in at 9:32am for 43 minutes, max depth of 91 feet, temp 79
Coolest wreck Ive ever dove! The coral and sponge growth is awesome. The wreck is still intact. We swam through a narrow exterior walkway on the bridge deck and went around the back of the boat. Clive pointed to something under a ledge a huge Green Moray Eel. When I looked up again, he had disappeared. I finally followed my son through a door hole and entered a huge hold. Then we swam through the bridge. Very, very cool! Also saw lots of neat sea life, including an Intermediate Phase Queen Angelfish, lots of male Sergeant Majors guarding their eggs, and several Bearded Fireworms.
1/19 Skalahein; in at 11:11am for 1 hr, 14 mins, max depth of 57 feet
Very long and relaxing drift dive. Nice current took us along at just the right speed, then slowed to let us look some more. Very healthy reef that seemed to go on forever. Saw Whitespotted Filefish and a Sprawled Filefish each more than a foot long. Lots of male Bluehead Wrasses fun to watch them trying to keep their harems in order. Another Longsnout Butterflyfish.
1/20 DePalm Slope; in at 10:31am for 51 minutes, max depth of 85 feet, temp 73-79
Wall had lots of algae and not a lot of fish life. Visibility was also very low. We hit a thermocline several times; you could see it. Saw a Spotted Moray Eel, the orange spots on an Orangespotted Filefish, and an Intermediate Phase Blue Tang with a yellow tail.
1/20 Barcadera Reef; in at 12:24pm for 1 hour, max depth of 52 feet, temp 72-79 Drift dive, but very little current. Hit thermocline for first part of dive. My sons computer read 70 degrees at one point burr! Saw a Southern Stingray (about 2 feet across) with a fishing line dragging behind. Clive tried to get it off, but wasnt successful. Saw three moray eels near a small barge a Chain Moray and two Goldentail Morays. Also saw a small turtle (maybe 1.5 feet across).
1/21 Puerto Chiquito; in at 4:40pm for 32 minutes, max depth of 68 feet, temp 79
Clive doesnt dive on Sunday, so we rode ATVs in the morning and did a shore dive in the afternoon. Clive supplied the tanks. Found the dive site on www.shorediving.com. Very easy entry and exit. But lousy visibility, say 20-30 feet. Some algae on coral, but lots of nice tropical reef fish. My son saw a Chain Moray Eel again. I saw two damselfish mating. I was impressed that my husband accurately predicted where to head for shore just at our entry point!
1/22 Sonesta Plane Wreck; in at 9:34am for 53 minutes, max depth of 84 feet, temp 79
Two wrecks at this site, but we only dove one of them (the Dash 80) due to the current. We had dove the other one as a night dive on 1/18. Saw bunches of Blackbar Soldierfish and Pedersen Cleaning Shrimp hanging around Anemones.
1/22 Sponge Reef; in at 11:20am for 1 hour, max depth of 50 feet, temp 79
Lots of beautiful sponges to be expected at a site called Sponge Reef! Several Green Moray Eels and a Purplemouth Moray (first time sighting not common in this area). Sure wish my pictures of the Purplemouth was decent.
1/23 Debbie II; in at 9:56am for 48 minutes, max depth of 74 feet, temp 79
Round reef island surrounded by sand. A very nice wreck was intentionally sunk at the edge. My husband spotted a Spotted Scorpionfish, about a foot long, at the edge of the coral island. Watched a Green Moray Eel being cleaned by two Scarlet-striped Cleaning Shrimp. My picture also shows an Arrow Crab which I didnt even notice at the time! Saw lots of Longsnout Butterflyfish about 8 of them! More than Ive ever seen anywhere. Also two Longjaw Squirrelfish (first time sighting). The mooring line was its own coral reef - covered with coral, sponges, and lots of tiny critters including blennies sticking their heads out of holes, watching us on our safety stop.
1/23 Antilla Wreck; in at 11:57am for 55 minutes, max depth of 54 feet, temp 81
Very busy place lots of snorklers, although I doubt that they could see much. Very big wreck (~400 feet). We penetrated lots of spaces on the wreck (very easy entry). Saw zillions of Painted Tunicates. Watched a Banded Butterflyfish fan eggs with tail not sure why as there was a good current. Saw several Bearded Fireworms one was about a foot long (the max length). Good size garden eels. Free swimming 4 foot Green Moray Eel.
The Hotel
We stayed at the Renaissance Ocean Suites, which is right next to the Renaissance Marina where Clives boat is docked. We stayed in a one bedroom suite that had a small kitchen (small refrigerator, microwave, and sink; no dishes or utensils). Apparently some of the other suites have a more complete kitchen. The balcony was big enough for three sets of gear. However, this is definitely not a dive resort people ask all kinds of questions as we schlepped our gear through the lobby. They have a tiny beach (probably man made), but also a private island with two beach areas one for adults, the other for families. A boat launch runs every few minutes. We dont spend much time relaxing at the beach, but I went one afternoon. It was a nice diversion for a few hours. Some people spend all day, every day on the island. There were two nice pools and a good (but expensive) pool bar. The Renaissance has two parts to it the Ocean Suites (where we stayed) and the Marina Tower. The Marina Tower is for adults only and has hotel rooms, rather than suites. Most of the restaurants and other services are available at the Marina Tower. It is across the street from the Ocean Suites, and a golf cart shuttle runs between the two. ********
The Restaurants
********Before going, I read many trip reports on Aruba (from divers and non-divers). Everyone raves about the restaurants. I did my research (including http://www.restaurantsaruba.com/) and was ready with my list of restaurants that my family would love. After striking out on the first few, we just randomly picked. Then we tried getting recommendations from other people there. We didnt have any great meals lots of pretty good meals. We think that we are spoiled by all of the great restaurants in the DC area. Or perhaps we just didnt have good luck. So, I dont have any restaurants to recommend **********
Comparisons
**********So how does Aruba compare to some other dive destinations? Heres some thoughts on how it compares to other destinations that weve visited in the past few years Bonaire Aruba has more variety (reefs, drift dives, and wrecks) and more topside activities (casinos, lots of restaurants, historic sites, horseback riding, ATVs, beaches, etc.). Arubas shorediving is very limited and the visibility wasnt as good. Bahamas (AquaCat itinerary out of Nassau) Aruba has much healthier reefs (many of the Bahamas reefs were covered with algae with very limited fish) but very few big animals (didnt see a single shark!). St Croix and Grand Cayman Aruba had better wrecks but no real wall dives. Cozumel Aruba has drift dives, but slow & easy drift dives, not the speed of the Cozumel drift dives. ************
Final Thoughts
************My external strobe was not working, so I didnt take pictures the first day of diving. Then I used my internal flash, which seemed to mostly illuminate the sand and sediment in the water column. Ive included just a few pictures that arent horrible. Aruba isnt usually considered one of the top diving destinations. But we sure had a great time and thought that it had plenty to offer for a good week of diving. You might want to check it out.
