Two hours from Miami by plane yet worlds away, the Bay Islands of Honduras feels exotic for good reason. This trio of islands in the western Caribbean offers underwater encounters that run the gamut, from reef sharks and whale sharks to macro critters like seahorses and cowfish. And although most dives begin along gently sloping drop-offs, you can also find pinnacles and seamounts, and a network of cracks and crevices that make for adrenaline-inducing swim-throughs.

SHEER IMPACT

“Check out Google Earth to see the dramatic topography,” says Andy Phillips, PADI course director for Utila Dive Center. He’s talking about those pinnacles, seamounts and drop-offs that tec divers target. Because the destination doesn’t see the degree of tec traffic that other Caribbean locales do, much of the island’s deeper real estate remains largely unexplored. For those with the skills and willingness to explore what lies below, first descents — aka diving and naming virgin territory — are still to be had.

TUNNEL VISIONS

In the category of best caves, caverns and grottoes, these islands earned a top-five ranking in the Caribbean and Atlantic. It’s clear why once you dive Spooky Channel on Roatan’s north shore. Swimming through this crack in the reef feels like walking between Manhattan skyscrapers: You’ll wedge between walls spanning 100 feet before coming to a grotto at 65 feet. Dolphin’s Den is another must-see, named for a group of animals that swam into the tunnel and became disoriented in 2007; their bones remain inside. At Bear’s Den, kick through a long, narrow cave where overhead cutouts too small to serve as exits filter in light.

MACRO MECCA

Voted No. 3 for best macro diving in the Caribbean and Atlantic region, Roatan and Utila will have you constantly reaching for Paul Humann and Ned DeLoach’s Reef Creature Identification book. At sites like Calvin’s Crack, don’t think that when the guide flashes the seahorse sign that there’s just one. There’s no system yet to ask which color — white, orange, yellow, etc. — so bring a slate to ask
for follow-up details. As for what other macro critters you’ll encounter, the list is rather extensive: frogfish, decorator crabs, box crabs, flatworms and nudibranchs are just the beginning. Bonus: Because this area is known for macro, many guides excel at spotting the critters, and at making sure you don’t swim past finds.

NEWBIES WELCOME

The Bay Islands scored second in our Readers’ Choice awards for beginner divers in the Caribbean and Atlantic region, which doesn’t surprise Mitch Karlson. “Today alone, we have five groups of divers from the States
doing open-water classes,” says the general manager of CoCo View Resort on Roatan. The destination is well suited to those looking to gain experience: The water is warm and clear, and many sites lie within 60 feet. Plus, several areas, including the “front yard” of CoCo View Resort, offer shore-entry, making it easy for newbies as well as more-experienced divers wanting to work on new skills and certifications.

SPRING BREAK FOR GIANTS

Nowhere else in the Caribbean do whale sharks feed vertically, swooping straight toward the surface to inhale plankton.

Between March and April, you can witness this behavior while swimming with these massive filter-feeders of Utila. “My favorite encounter started when a whale shark snuck up on us,” says Phillips. “We had been looking in the opposite direction and could have missed the sighting — but we did connect, and it stayed with us for 20 minutes.”

NIGHT DIVING

One of the bonuses of Roatan is that with so many large-scale resorts, you don’t have to ask if there’s a night dive happening — you just add your name
to the manifest. You’ll spot unfolding basket stars, octopuses on the hunt and lobsters skittering across sand. If you’re visiting within a few days of a new moon, you can also see a bioluminescent phenomenon called string of pearls. You’ll need everyone in the group to turn off their dive lights for at least three minutes before you start to see tiny, white orbs form in the water column, one atop the other. What you’re witnessing is a mating mechanism of deepwater crustaceans rising from the depths, but it feels like an underwater city slowly coming alive.

TOP 100 BAY ISLANDS

TOPSIDE PERK

Although technically you can find patches of jungle on Roatan and Utila, they’re nothing like
what you’ll experience on the mainland. When you cross to La Ceiba, lush rainforest parks big enough to contain rushing rivers await. There, companies like Omega Tours offer day-trip eco-adventures that will send you rafting down the Rio Sico and hiking through the breathtaking Rio Cangrejal valley.

EAT

Roatan’s Temporary Cal’s Cantina is popular with the locals for its inspired Mexican fare and high perch overlooking the areas of Parrot Bay and First Bight. The menu changes daily. You can find anything from grilled lobster to nachos and chile rellenos. One thing that doesn’t change about this open-air hangout is that the margaritas are always potent. Note that this joint is open Tuesday through Friday only.

PHOTO OP

During your stay at Utila, take at least an hour
to check out the Jade Seahorse and Nightland Cabins. Former art teacher Neil Keller has transformed his backyard into a massive art installation with millions of bits of glass, beads and other flotsam cemented into walls, benches and arches. Spend the night in one of the cabins, or stop by for a drink at the treehouse bar — you’ll feel like Alice in Wonderland.

NEED TO KNOW

WHEN TO GO

When planning your trip, it’s important to keep in mind that the Bay Islands aren’t outside the hurricane belt; otherwise, diving conditions are excellent virtually year-round.

TRAVEL TIP

“Go directly to 
Roatan — don’t go through the mainland because it’s a pain in the butt,” says CoCo View Resort’s Mitch Karlson. Direct international flights to Utila are not available.

DIVE CONDITIONS

Water temperatures dip as low as 78 degrees in winter,
to 86 degrees in September. Visibility is almost consistently 80 feet and above; the range varies between 60 and 120 feet.