Just a two-hour drive north on the arid peninsula from the more famous party town of Cabo San Lucas, La Paz has a decidedly residential feel, a stunning malecón (its seafront esplanade, lined with restaurants and bars) and some of the best aguachiles (a ceviche-like appetizer made from raw fish) in all of Mexico.

Several years ago, I had the unbelievable good fortune to spend two whole months living the dream: I rented an apartment with a German dive buddy and we brought our three young kids to explore and soak in the sights, sounds, and flavors of La Paz, located in Mexico’s Baja California Sur.

We lived large those two months, me and my amiga, diving or snorkeling during the day on wrecks and rocky reefs, often accompanied by inquisitive sea lions. Jacques Cousteau once called the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium,” and I was ecstatic to finally play in it. We even hired a local nanny to help our kids learn Spanish, allowing us the freedom to explore on our own. Evenings were spent strolling the malecon together with the kids, once the sun had mellowed out for the day. I can’t think of a better place to go for a dive vacation–and to decide to linger longer after, too, there’s just so much to do in this part of Mexico.

Read on for a few standout experiences to put on your radar if you’ve got the good suerte of a diving trip in the outdoorsy paradise of La Paz.

Head Out for a Beachy Desert Hike

Pocketed with bays and backed by arid mountains that look like crumpled lunch bags on the horizon, the coastline around La Paz is spectacularly beautiful as well as impressively accessible thanks to abundant hiking trails. Anyone who enjoys walking with breathtaking views will be spoiled for choice of options here.

Pack your bathing suit, sunscreen and plenty of water for one of my favorite hikes, connecting Playa El Tecolote and Playa Balandra, just north of town. The route takes you around the hilltop called Cerro el Tecolote and winds past beaches lapped by Caribbean blue waters, including the famous bay at Playa Balandra. Stop here for a dip to cool off with views of Isla Espiritu Santo (and break out your snorkeling gear, too, and be sure to frolic in the shallows).

Take a Self-guided Taqueria Tour

It’s incredible how well—and how inexpensively, too—you can eat in La Paz, especially when you’re into street food like I am. Particularly along the streets on and around the waterfront, taquerias and casual food stalls offer a moveable feast starring fresh local fish, shellfish and other local ingredients paired with hand-tossed tortillas and zesty salsas. For a few of my favorite stops, don’t miss the offerings at Rancho Viejo, just a block off the malecon, and the simple fish and shrimp tacos at the hideaway taqueria, Taco Fish La Paz.

Editor’s suggestion: For vegetarian and vegan meals, my favorite spots are Nomada Fresh, Capuchino, Dulce Romero and Nim.

Dive an Incredible Wreck

If you’re into rust, there are a few wrecks to bookmark among the 20 or so dive sites easily accessible from La Paz. The wreck of the Chinese vessel, Fang Ming, is sheltered from the swell by Isla Espiritu Santo and appeals to divers of all levels. The wreck is abundant with glittering fish and has a notorious history to boot (ask your dive guides to tell you about its 1995 seizure by Mexican authorities following an attempt at human trafficking). These days, the wreck attracts schooling fish, rays, sea turtles and more and makes for an exciting descent just a short cruise from the shore.

Fin Among Pelagics at Submerged Seamounts

There’s nothing I love better when diving than finding myself on the inside of a massive school of fish–a tornado, if you will, of bulging eyes and silvery scales. Large schools of fish and, if you’re lucky, hundreds of schooling hammerheads, are often seen at the dive site called El Bajo that consists of three isolated seamounts some 8 miles offshore from the famous sea lion colony at Islas Los Islotes. Heavy currents, open-exposure to the sea and depths of up to 85 feet make this an advanced dive as well as a pelagic magnet with steep walls, canyons and drop-offs to explore. Prepare to feel your eyes widen on repeat behind your mask at the sheer vision of it all.

Kayak the Crystal Blue Waters

If I can’t be in the water snorkeling or diving, then I’m quite content to be atop it, too. Several La Paz outfitters offer easy day trips right from the town beaches into the bay and through mangrove-lined landscapes. If you have the time, the ultimate kayak adventure here involves boat-assisted, multi-day camping trips around Isla Espiritu Santo–an uninhabited and mystical-feeling island you can reach via a short boat trip from La Paz.

Surf the Sand Dunes

You might not be able to ski or snowboard in these parts, but you can sandboard down the coastal dunes of El Mogote, accessed via thrilling off-road guided ATV tours with Baja Desconocida and other area operators and about 30 minutes from La Paz. Along the way, your guide might point out some of the region’s desert and coastal fauna such as road runners, hares, osprey and red and yellow cardinals. Once you get to the dune’s edge, just drop your board, jump atop and get ready to fly.

Soak up Sunset on a Rooftop With a Mezcalito

I’ve always been a spicy margarita type of girl. But the time I spent in La Paz made a Mezcalito-lover out of me. Made with freshly squeezed citrus juices and smoky Mezcal, this La Paz cocktail of choice is all kinds of refreshing apres-dive or with another seafood dinner (and always with that spicy Tajin rim lining the glass for me). A couple of my favorite La Paz rooftop bars for raising a Mezcalito–or a mocktail, if you prefer–are adults-only spot Azotea, with sparkling views of the Sea of Cortez and the malecon, and 612 Rooftop (Seis Uno Dos, as the locals call it), which offers similarly sunny cocktails and sunset vibes.