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A Liveaboard Journey through the Cayman Islands

| Published On May 25, 2017
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A Liveaboard Journey through the Cayman Islands

Editor's Note: Check out the newly launched, Cayman Aggressor V here.

Clear water … check. Neon-colored sponges… check. Dancing sunbeams … check. Model in perfect position … check. Easy shot … uh, no. The scene through my viewfinder instantly morphs from dazzling panorama to two puppy-doglike eyes. I raise my head to find a large Nassau grouper staring at me and wiggling its pectoral fins as if to say, “Let’s play!” Lauren, my wife and model, loses it and laughs away half of her tank.

scuba diving the Kittiwake Cayman Islands

A diver explores the Kittiwake.

Scott Johnson

During the briefing for our dive at Leah Leah’s Lookout off Little Cayman, Niall Lawlor, the quick- witted and thoroughly entertaining captain of the Cayman Aggressor IV, proclaims in a charming Irish brogue: “Here we are at world-famous Bloody Bay Marine Park. The wall is decorated with brilliant fans and sponges. We have a swim-through at 45 feet that leads to a mesmerizing view of the drop-off around 90 feet. The animals, especially the grouper and giant morays, are very approachable, if not downright nosy, here in Little Cayman.” OK, so the man knows his stuff. Insatiably curious grouper are our ever-present companions during the day, and hunting for reef octopuses entertains us at night.

Cayman Brac’s signature dive is the M/V Captain Keith Tibbetts, a shallow-water wreck that was intentionally sunk in 1996, on the northwest side of the island. Our grouper-fueled encounters are supersize here when Oscar the goliath grouper almost scares our fins off with a fleshy-lipped appearance from a recess of the wreck during another thrilling night dive.

Not to be outclassed by the Sister Islands to the east, Grand Cayman boasts its own signature wrecks in the Doc Poulson and M/V Kittiwake, a southern stingray feeding extravaganza known as Stingray City, and mazes of coral tunnels in less than 50 feet of water. Our unexpected and very welcome play buddy at Hammerhead Hill is a hawksbill sea turtle that apparently thinks the best place to be is wherever we swim. Between chomping on sponges and surfacing for air, the incredibly friendly turtle repeatedly swims to Lauren while I compose and shoot the unusual playmates. Absolutely adorable … check.

moray eel in cayman islands

A moray eel.

Scott Johnson

Trip Highlights

Day 1
We board the liveaboard in George Town, Grand Cayman, on Saturday afternoon, set up our gear, cruise during the evening, and awake at Little Cayman.

Day 2
Bloody Bay Marine Park is our playground for two and a half days. Bus Stop gives us a chance to focus on macro in the form of mouthbrooding yellowhead jawfish and more.

Day 5
The vibrant orange tube sponges adorning the twin bow guns of the M/V Captain Keith Tibbetts — a 330-foot Russian frigate — make for a picture-perfect setting.

Day 6
A school of 25-plus tarpon fills a shallow channel at Grand Cayman’s Bullwinkle. These large fish look like metallic sentinels as the sun’s rays reflect off their shiny silver scales.

5 Reasons to Dive the Cayman Islands

scuba diving cayman islands

A mutton snapper and rope sponge.

Scott Johnson

The Boat

Cayman Aggressor IV
Total passengers: 18
Cabins: 9
Total crew: 6
Length: 110 feet
Beam: 22 feet
Number of decks: 3

Cayman Aggressor V

Since the time of this story, Aggressor has introduced a new boat to the Cayman Islands — the Cayman Aggressor V.

Courtesy Aggressor Liveaboards

TRIP TIPS
Shop Till You Drop George Town’s duty-free shops offer everything from rum cakes to jewelry, but for something unique, head to Pure Art, a charming cottage filled with local art.

Cayman Cuisine Grape Tree Cafe, a beach shack in Bodden Town, serves up a delicious “fish fry,” Grand Cayman’s version of fast food. Order fried mahimahi or roasted red snapper with fritters.

A True Dive Bar My Bar is the come-as-you-are seaside bar at Sunset House, a popular land-based resort for divers. The signature drink is the mudslide, a potent cocktail of vodka, Kahlua and cream.

Fun in the Sun If a nondiver is in your group or you’re observing the no-fly rule before heading home, you can still get wet. Seven Mile Beach watersports operators offer paddleboarding, parasailing and snorkeling.


Cayman Islands: 60 years of Recreational Diving | Cayman Islands Five Ways